Geumseongdang-je

Some snacks outside.

The silk fabric led the way inside the shrine where a live band was performing.

They came out to bring things in.

Literally.

You can see neighbours out front watching from the sidewalk.

Some of the sacrifices on display, plus the band.

It would not be fun sitting this close to a rotting pig carcass all day.

Here is the setting of the Shamanism Museum, embedded within Eunpyeong New Town.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

Bowing.

The guy with glasses is Dr. Yang Jong-sung, who runs this place.

Then they brought in a trident instead, and stuck the cow head on the end of it.

As it balances on its own, people come up and offer it money.

A closer look at the head.

I ran into Aaron, who's really into shamanism and edited all the English copy about this place (which is actually well-done).

Aaron donates.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

A closer look at some of the offerings.

Some of the musicians.

Putting on a shoe.

The view from this angle.

One of the other shaman performers. I'll figure out all their names eventually.

This shaman gosu was being pretty talkative.

Another look at the row of musicians, with the shaman sitting in on janggu.

They would have made a good comedy duo.

Money.

It was pretty interactive, I'd say moreso than pansori, at least because they could deviate much more from the story to interact or collect money.

I ended up being told not to be back here.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

I went to find Dr. Yang to get a portrait of him.

First step was to make him laugh.

And to get pictures of him gesticulating.

And then it was Dr. Yang's turn to dance.

Pouring an offering.

And deep bows.

He was much more active than he looks in stills.

Neighbourhood people were coming and going, including a few small kids.

The shamans dragged an audience member in to dance.

And a second one, who was even more nervous.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

They dressed this shaman up with about eight layers.

I thought he was going to balance the cow head again, but this time he threw a huge side of beef onto the tripod, followed by the other side of beef on the other side, and then pig hooves on top. All balanced on a bowl of rice.

As soon as it lost stability, it was brought down.

I'm guessing the longer they can keep up these feats, the more time they have to collect money.

People would put money on the flags and he would make it vanish.

Maybe he was making it reappear on his forehead? I wasn't watching closely enough.

This shaman started laughing maniacally and playing with the hooves.

He skewered the pig when my back was turned and I didn't get a very good look.

Meanwhile, out back, a butcher was hard at work.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

Now it's time for target practice.

And a monk dance.

I think she was brandishing this branch to try to clear away the rotting flesh smell in the air.

Performing while the butcher gets to work on the pig.

A younger shaman.

She made eye contact with me, and my camera missed it but her eyes were horrifying.

Waving the fan over the audience.

Tteok and money collection.

Then a number of shamans danced all at once.

Getting ready for something.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.

That's where the head goes.

Packing up picks up speed.

Sacrificial foods. All of this will go home with someone.

Dr. Yang and district workers.

Presumably taking the food is a form of payment for the performers too.

I knew the teardown at the end would be worth seeing.

Dr. Yang made sure I didn't leave without a bag of stuff.

The bags.

Finally got back there to get action shots.

Click for full size.

Many more pictures of the above here if you need.